Pepper pot.

A friend and I once took a Caribbean cooking class through the Vancouver School Board’s Continuing Education program. I had taken other classes through the same program and they were all taught by professional chefs and I learned some fabulous things, including recipes I still use on a regular basis, so I thought the Caribbean class would be equally useful.

When we got to the first class, the instructor was wearing a lot of red lipstick, some of it on her lips, and a T-shirt printed with a picture of her face. She was no longer allowed to sell her herbs and spices in class – the school board forbade it – so if you wanted to come out to her car after class, she’d sell you spices in Zip-Loc bags. I can imagine how it would look, buying a baggy of dried thyme from the trunk of someone’s car in a south Vancouver high school parking lot, but I guess that’s how she supplemented her income; she would mention her spices two to three times, every time.

She also ran a catering company and would deliver your Christmas turkey or Hanukkah feast, and taught she taught basic cookery to children (I was once handed a recipe for a spaghetti dessert involving raisins, cottage cheese, and cinnamon – I think it was supposed to be Noodle Kugel, but it missed the mark … a bit). The course was four classes long and basically one giant commercial. And the food was terrible.

What I did get out of the class, aside from a Certificate of Attendance and a desire for my own face on a T-shirt, was an introduction to some of the basic flavour combinations that comprise Caribbean cooking. What follows is a version of Caribbean Pepper Pot, which I was introduced to in that class, but which has evolved into something less complicated but infinitely more complex.

It is mildly sweet, as spicy as you want it, and full of autumn veggies, which makes it a cozy dinner that’s lovely this time of year. I hope you’ll try it. And no need to follow me out to my car afterward.

(Serves six to eight)

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil
• 8 chicken thighs, bone in, skin removed
• 1 medium onion, halved lengthwise and sliced
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 tbsp. dark brown sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
• 1 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 1/2 lbs. yams or sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped into one-inch pieces
• 2 cups diced fresh tomatoes
• 1 to 2 scotch bonnet or habañero peppers, pierced (unless you like it really hot, then chop the peppers finely … but be careful)
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 1 14 oz. can coconut milk
• 1 lime, zest and juice
• 1/2 lb. okra, chopped into one-inch pieces
• 1 red bell pepper, chopped
• 1 cup chopped kale, packed
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or other large, heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add chicken thighs and brown each side. Remove from pan and set aside.

Add onions and garlic to the pan, scraping up any chicken bits from the bottom. Add bay leaves, brown sugar, thyme, allspice, and cinnamon. Cook until fragrant.

Add tomatoes, sweet potatoes or yams, scotch bonnet or habañero pepper(s), chicken stock, coconut milk, and lime zest and juice. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to medium, and simmer for 30 minutes.

Add okra, red pepper, and kale and simmer for an additional 10 to 15 minutes, until okra is soft. Stir in cilantro. Taste, adjusting seasonings as needed. Remove pepper and bay leaves. Serve with rice.

Sriracha buffalo wings.

I don’t really get chicken wings.

Like, I get that they are a vehicle for sauce and dip and that sauce and dip are two of humanity’s greatest triumphs, but as a vehicle they are clunky and difficult. There are too many parts of the chicken wing that are not meat, and you have to work for what you get, and you don’t get much. You have to keep eating chicken wings forever if you expect them to make a meaningful meal.

And anyway, if I am going to get my hands dirty, it’s got to be for something really worthwhile, like crab legs or brownies.

But Nick really likes them, and doesn’t even seem to care that they are messy and complicated. And since we always eat what I feel like eating sometimes it’s not a bad idea to throw him a bone. These wings are fried and then doused in sriracha and then baked, and I served them with a chilled dip of sour cream, lime juice, salt, pepper, and cilantro. For the longest time Nick ate in silence, not even pausing to swear at the Canucks or complain that he had to get his own beer. These are good wings – the first period has ended and he still hasn’t spoken a word.

• 2 cups peanut oil
• 2 lbs. chicken wings, tips removed
• 1/2 cup flour
• 4 tbsp. sriracha
• 2 tbsp. butter, melted
• 1 tbsp. lime juice
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. pepper
• Chopped scallion, for garnish

In a large pan over medium-high heat, heat oil for three minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place chicken into a plastic bag with flour, and shake until wings are covered – you may need to do this in two batches. Place half the wings gently into the pan, and cook eight to 10 minutes, until golden. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels, and repeat with the second set of wings.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine sriracha, butter, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Add fried wings and toss to coat.

Place on a baking sheet fitted with a wire rack. Bake for 25 minutes.

Serve hot and sprinkled with chopped scallions.

Paprika roast chicken, again.

When speaking of this site, Nick and I call it Bloggy, affectionately as it is a large part of our existence. “Will it go on Bloggy?” Nick asks when dinner is good. Well, today is Bloggy’s second birthday. We celebrated with an update to the roast chicken I wrote about in my very first post. It’s strange, but this week has felt just as long as it did the first time I wrote, and just as much now as then, we both felt that spicy roast chicken would solve all our problems and be just the thing to help us move into another seven days. Chicken’s magical the way it does that, isn’t it? Well, maybe not, considering the part wine plays.

In two years, my paprika roast chicken has undergone some changes. I’ve streamlined the process and added butter, so now you simply slather the chicken in a paste of spices and butter, and roast it with a bit of white wine for 90 minutes in a 425°F oven. The last part is because of Ina Garten, who roasts her chickens in a similar way, and who is right about how to do things quite a lot of the time.

To roast a chicken in this way is to save yourself steps, time, and fussing; the result is a meal that makes itself (save for a couple rounds of basting when you’re passing through the kitchen to refill your wine glass – if you’re like me, in 90 minutes you will do this three or four times and if it’s the weekend you may need to open a second bottle but that’s okay because you’re cooking and cooking is art).

Paprika roast chicken

• 1 whole chicken, 4 to 5 lbs.
• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter or olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp. sweet paprika
• 1 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1 tsp. ground black pepper
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/2 cup dry white wine

Let chicken rest at room temperature for an hour. Preheat oven to 425°F.

In a small bowl, combine butter or oil, garlic, paprika, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, black pepper, and salt. Mush together with a fork until the mixture forms a paste.

Using your hands, slather the paste all over the chicken, sliding your fingers under the skin to rub the paste into the breast, legs, and thighs. Wash your hands, then truss the chicken, folding the wing tips behind the bird, and place it into a roasting pan. Pour wine into the bottom of the pan. Optionally, you could throw in some chopped carrots or onions at this point. Sweet potatoes would also be lovely.

Roast the chicken for 90 minutes (or 18 minutes per pound), until the juices run clear when you cut into the spot between the leg and thigh. Baste periodically, adding additional wine or water as needed to moisten the bottom of the pan.

Remove from oven and tent with tin foil. Let rest 20 minutes before serving. You can make a spicy, luscious gravy by tossing a handful of flour into the pan drippings and stirring in a bit of milk or cream. If there are leftovers they are wonderful in pozole, and the carcass makes a glorious stock.

Coq au Riesling.

Sometimes I like to imagine that I am someone quite fabulous like Ina Garten or Nigella Lawson, and at the end of a grueling day of snacking and writing cookbooks and lunching with my fabulous friends in the garden and making roast chicken I come home to my sprawling manor and there is calm and wine from France and a library just heaving with books that I have all evening to sit and read while nibbling on bits of ham.

I usually imagine this on the bus, and it keeps me from sobbing or stabbing someone. The 99 B-Line is a hell of a thing, an accordion bus polluted with the tinny blitz of a thousand little ear buds failing to hold the bad music in, and it smells like a damp sheep’s crotch, and everyone wears his backpack and is telling his friend how he’s, like, probably going to medical school or that her favourite poet is TS Eliot because he’s so super deep or whatever. It’s the bus that ends at the University, and for a ride that takes 25 minutes on a slow day, it feels like the relentless march of karma getting even.

And so I escape into my head, and by the time I’ve arrived at work I have dinner planned, and even though the evening always ends at my less-than-palatial apartment which is always in frantic disarray, with its shelves that don’t heave nearly as much as I’d like, there is wine here, and a cat who very much wants to be in my lap even when I’m standing, and Nick is so nice about not mentioning that my hips are looking more and more like Nigella’s all the time. And while the fantasy is nice, I have no idea how we’d pay for it all, and we probably couldn’t keep it clean anyway.Anyway, the best part of it all is the food, and that’s something I can replicate. What follows is a version of Nigella Lawson’s Coq au Riesling, with the addition of cornstarch for thickening. It’s the perfect stew for pretending you’re someplace else, like Alsace or Nigella’s dining room, and you can have it in under an hour.

Adapted from Nigella Lawson

(Serves four to six.)

• 1/2 lb. thick-sliced bacon, diced
• 1 large leek, cleaned and sliced width-wise, white and light-green parts only
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 10 to 12 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
• 1/2 lb. oyster or chanterelle mushrooms, sliced or torn roughly
• 1 750mL bottle of dry Riesling
• 2 tbsp. cornstarch
• Salt and pepper, to taste

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, fry bacon until crisp. If you’re using a non-fatty bacon (I used peameal bacon), add a bit of butter. Stir in leeks and garlic, and sauté until leeks have softened, about two minutes. Add chicken, then mushrooms, and deglaze the pot with the wine. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, remove cover and turn heat back to medium-high. Taste, and adjust seasonings as needed. Whisk cornstarch together with 1/4 cup of water, and stir into the pot. Let the mixture return to a gentle boil until thickened. Remove from heat and serve over rice, buttered noodles, or (my favourite), braised cabbage.

Coconut chicken corn chowder, and some pictures that do not do it justice.

I have talked about food and its importance as a tool of expressing love and home, but I would be remiss if I forgot to mention in all that idyll that while I most certainly cook because it is the way in which I convey my awkward affection, I also do it because I want you to like me.

Food is my way of bribing you to ignore the film of flour and cat hair that covers most of my apartment floor, or the weird jumble of things that might come out of my mouth when I mean to say something else but am tired and have had no caffeine today but three glasses of wine already. It’s how I welcome new friends, and how I hope to keep their attention, thus preventing it from wandering to the less-than-savoury elements of my home’s decor.

And recently, though less recently than he will admit (and my badgering has been relentless, so he put up an admirable fight), Paul has found himself a girlfriend, whom he has kept secret from us, as if he doesn’t know full well that I like to know all the things. And when I finally shouted about it in a crowded restaurant this week, begging “Why, Paul? WHY?!” he broke down and offered to bring her to meet us. Mostly to meet me.

I promised that we’d have chicken and corn chowder and that I’d wear real pants, not something in Spongebob-covered flannel. I want her to like me. When you want someone to like you, the best way is to create a feeling of warmth, and more often than not that should involve coconut milk. Cheese is also very good for buying anyone’s affection, but in this case I served it in a side dish (I should give you the biscuit recipe sometime), which still counts.

The recipe that follows is the sort of thing you’d serve if you were inviting someone new in, because it’s warm and comforting with its familiar elements, and because it’s also not what they’d expect when you tell them over the phone that you’re serving them chicken and corn chowder. Also, the name of the dish is a spectacular piece of alliteration, so bonus points for that.

Coconut chicken corn chowder

(Serves four.)

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil
• 2 tbsp. minced fresh ginger
• 2 tbsp. minced shallot
• 4 to 5 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp. dried lemongrass, crumbled
• 3 cups fresh or frozen corn, divided
• 2 cups diced sweet potatoes
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1 14 oz. can coconut milk
• 2 cups diced cooked (preferably leftover) chicken
• 1 lime, zest and juice
• 1 tbsp. fish sauce
• 1 tbsp. sriracha (or to taste)
• 1 large red bell pepper, diced
• 3 tbsp. chopped fresh basil
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Heat oil in the bottom of a large, heavy-bottomed pot set over medium-high heat. Add ginger, shallot, garlic, and lemongrass and sauté quickly, until golden. Add sweet potatoes and one cup of corn. Add stock. Scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to scrape off any browned bits. Add coconut milk. And then chicken.

Add fish sauce, lime zest and juice, and sriracha.

Bring to a gentle boil, then turn heat down a couple of notches, so that the pot returns to a simmer. Simmer for ten to 15 minutes, until sweet potatoes are fork-tender.

Add remaining corn and the red pepper. Simmer for five minutes. Then stir in most of the basil, except for a little bit which you will sprinkle over top of it all at the end for colour.

Taste. Adjust seasonings as needed. Inhale. Feel wonderful. Serve hot, with baking powder biscuits.

Take better pictures than this. And then turn your attention to Paul’s new girlfriend, who happens to be quite lovely (and also likes cats), and make a mental note to remind him in the car on the way to Powell River this weekend that he ought to remember from now on that you will continue to like to know all the things.

I hope she likes us.

Roasting a chicken is a very good idea.

Roast chicken, in theory, is the perfect food for penny-pinching households. Depending of the size of the bird and your household, you can make a single roast chicken span several (or 17?!) different meals AND end up with a freezer full of homemade chicken stock. It’s economy in a roasting pan. Sort of. I say “in theory” because for some reason, a four-pound roasting chicken that’s led a happy life, playing outside and eating real food and not taking antibiotics, costs $15 to $25 here, depending on whether you buy it at the supermarket or your favourite local butcher. Which, I guess if you can get five meals out of it is still pretty reasonable, but the initial investment can seem pretty steep, especially if you are buying other things.

Maybe that’s just me?

It probably is. I’m very cheap. Roast chicken, for me, has become synonymous with warmth and comfort and all that is wholesome. I don’t know how that happened – I don’t roast that many chickens. On occasion, I have roasted some pretty terrible ones. And Nick is pretty sure he doesn’t like roast chicken, but can’t explain why he never wants it. Maybe he ate too many roast chickens as a child – I still bear ill-will to all manner of Shepherd’s Pie (my parents think I’m joking when I tell them where they’re retiring … and it’s my sane young word against theirs that they’re not a danger to themselves and others … *insert sinister laugh here*), so I can understand if that’s the case, I guess.

I did not have too many roast chickens as a child, and may never have too many roast chickens. I even like the weirdly coloured, unnecessarily salty rotisserie chickens you buy from the supermarket. Love them. We used to get those sometimes and Dad would cut them up and we’d stuff the meat in white buns with Mississippi Sauce (which I can’t find a link to online … it’s a honey-mustard mayo-based sauce, and if you put a jar in front of me I’d eat the whole thing like pudding and then ask for seconds). It was very good.

When I got to be an “adult,” I thought roast chicken was something I should know how to make. I subsequently over-cooked, under-cooked, over-seasoned, and just plain wasted a series of chickens, never knowing where to quit with the spices and seasonings and fancy crap. A proper roast chicken is not complicated. It would be a few years before I’d figure that out.

And you don’t even need a recipe, though there are some good ones here, here, and here. Take a chicken, a fat, salt and pepper, and a spice or herb (optional), rub the first with the latter, and then place in a pan, maybe with some veggies, and cook uncovered in the oven until the internal temperature of the bird reaches 160°F to 165°F. It will take about an hour and a half, give or take, and will require an oven temperature about 400°F, which is also flexible.

Anyway. I mentioned the other day that Nick’s sister Jess, her husband Mark, and their adorable toddling daughter Elise were here for dinner, having driven from Winnipeg a week and a half prior. In my experience with vacations and driving long distances, the default food choices can wreak all kinds of interesting havoc on your digestive system. Their experience was no different, and then on top of that there was camping (read: hot dogs and chips for three days), and they were due to start their long drive back to Winnipeg yesterday. They needed wholesome.

So, roast chicken. And potatoes.

And catching up and laughing and Elise chasing the cat and the cat not minding and good wine and fresh local strawberries for dessert.

Nick liked the chicken. It turned out moist with crisp skin, which is how a roast chicken is supposed to turn out. We all had seconds. We talked about Winnipeg, and Montreal, and how Nick and I really ought to move because it’s so expensive here and roasting chickens doesn’t seem to cost as much when the cost of living isn’t so high. Our rent for our apartment is twice what they pay every month on their mortgage, for their house. We talked about the years between where we are and when we get there. The cat could have her own room if we packed up and went east.

But most of all, we watched Elise, who ages six months between each visit, and who is just freaking adorable. Also we talked about the cat a lot because we’re a little weird. Non-fussy dinners like roast chicken make it so that you can really enjoy your company, which is perhaps the most wholesome thing about it. And if you drink much too much when your company is over, as can happen from time to time, a roast chicken makes a marvellous hangover soup the next evening.

Chicken and spinach calzones.

We make and eat a lot of pizza around here – it’s my go-to meal when a bunch of people show up and are hungry. Last summer I discovered my new favourite easy crust, and there’s been no going back – I make it all the time. I change it from time to time – whole wheat flour, a little bit of buckwheat flour every so often, or spelt even. I let it rise a little for a thicker pizza, which is how I like it, or roll it out flat for a thinner crust. Or, sometimes, I add a little bit of semolina flour, give it 30 minutes in a warm kitchen, cut it into eight pieces, roll each piece out until it’s barely as thin as a pie crust, and stuff it with sauce and cheese.

Calzones are a treat, and they’re awesome for lunches at work or school – they’re pizza pops, but with none of that chemical stuff that’ll probably kill you. Cheese, a little sauce, some veggies and meat if you want – and you can stick them in the freezer and reheat them as you need them, in the microwave or toaster oven, whatever you’ve got. And if you’re using an easy crust, they’re the kind of thing you can serve on a weeknight, or even to company, with a little bit of salad and not much else.

If you use leftover chicken, even better! Less effort, so you have more time for drinking beer and inhaling the smell of baking pizza. Which is infinitely better than ordering delivery, even though delivery is easier. Some things are just worth a little bit more time, and people will like you more if you serve them calzones over take out schlock. Some of us need all the help we can get in that regard.

(Makes 8.)

Dough (inspired by a recipe from everybody likes sandwiches):

• 1 package yeast (or 2 1/4 tsp.)
• 1 tsp. honey
• 1 cup warm water
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup semolina flour (if you don’t have this, it’s not crucial; just use regular flour, or sub whole-wheat, if you want)
• 2 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tsp. salt

Filling

• 2 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 28 oz. can crushed tomatoes
• 2 cups shredded cooked chicken
• 2 cups packed fresh spinach, roughly chopped
• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh basil
• 2 tsp. ground black pepper
• 1 tsp. lemon zest
• Salt, to taste
• 2 cups grated mozzarella cheese

In a large bowl, combine yeast, honey, and water, and let stand until foamy, about five minutes. Add flour, semolina flour, oil, and salt and stir to combine. Turn out onto a floured surface, knead ten times, and then place in a greased bowl and cover with greased plastic wrap and allow to rise in a warm place for 30 to 40 minutes.

Use semolina if you can, because it’s extra nice in this kind of crust. It’s a coarser flour, and it produces an excellent crispiness that you’ll want in your calzones. Regular old all-purpose will work fine if that’s what you’ve got, but semolina is a nice touch. A little goes a long way too – spend the two dollars, and you’ll have a bag that will last you a long time, and you can add it to homemade pastas and breads and all kinds of things.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat onions in olive oil until shimmering. Add garlic, stir and saute for another minute, and then add crushed tomatoes. Reduce heat to medium, then add chicken, spinach, lemon zest, garlic, and basil. Taste, adjust salt as needed, and set aside.

Cut dough into four equal pieces, and then cut each piece in half. Roll each piece out until it is no more than 1/8-inch thick – it should be as round as possible, about the size of a small plate.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Spoon filling onto dough, dividing the amount as equally as possible between all eight rounds. Place the filling slightly above the centre of the dough, so that when you fold the short side of the dough over top of the filling, you still have an inch or so of dough on the other side. Place 1/4-cup of cheese on top of each scoop of filling, and fold dough over.

Press dough down gently to seal, and then fold the remaining dough over the crease to seal. You’ll end up with a sort of scalloped pattern, as you fold each bit of dough over the last. (See below.)

Place gently on a baking sheet lined with parchment or sprinkled with cornmeal. I bake these four to a sheet, with at least an inch between them, as they’ll puff up a bit and get bigger.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve hot.

If you’re not going to serve them all right away, you can cool the rest on a wire rack, and then wrap up and freeze. Reheat as needed.

Ten-minute sweet yellow curry.

It was supposed to be Rib Week, and indeed that’s how the week started off, but then I felt an obligation to perform and then some other stuff happened and I decided to hell with it, and stuck the rest of the ribs Nick bought into the freezer for another week. Today we had chicken in an easy ten-minute curry, because I am working on a few freelance writing projects before going back to work and have less time this week than I thought I would.

Don’t let the long list of ingredients put you off. It’s not that much, really, and it really does all come together by the time the rice is cooked. Which leaves you time for other important things, like drinking wine and watching What Would Brian Boitano Make?

Sweet yellow curry

• 1 cup diced mango (about one mango)
• 1 banana, sliced into rounds
• 1 large shallot (or small onion), chopped
• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh ginger
• 3 cloves garlic, smashed
• Zest and juice of one lime
• 2 tsp. sriracha (or the hot sauce of your choice)
• 1 tsp. fish sauce
• 1 bunch green onions, light green and white part separated from darker greens
• 1 398mL (14 oz.) can coconut milk
• 1 tbsp. canola or vegetable oil
• 2 tsp. sesame oil
• 1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. turmeric
• 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. ground coriander
• 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
• 2 red bell peppers, chopped
• 1 cup frozen peas
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro

In a food processor or blender, combine the mango, banana, shallot, ginger, garlic, lime juice and zest, fish sauce, sriracha, white & light green part of green onions, and coconut milk. Pulse or blend until smooth. Set aside.

Chop chicken thighs, and smash each piece with a meat mallet or rolling pin until flattened. Flattening the meat tenderizes it, and it cooks much faster because it’s not so thick.

In a large pan over medium-high heat, sauté chicken in canola and sesame oil. Add bell peppers. Let cook for a minute or two until the chicken browns, stirring frequently. Once chicken has browned, add cumin, turmeric, pepper, coriander, and nutmeg, stirring chicken and bell peppers to coat in spices.

Pour mango-coconut milk mixture into the pan, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to remove any browned bits, and stirring to incorporate all of the spices. The colour will be fantastic, possibly alarmingly bright. Reduce to medium heat, and bring to a gentle simmer to warm the sauce through.

Stir in the green part of the green onions (chopped) and the frozen peas. Simmer for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Before serving taste to check your seasoning, adjust as needed, then add cilantro. Serve over jasmine rice.

Seriously – this whole thing takes, like, ten minutes. It’s got a delicate sweetness, but not cloyingly or oppressively so, and gently spicy. It’s fragrant, and all kinds of good for you. Anything that colour has to be good for you.

I’m sorry, it’s really quite nice here. Not a flake of snow in sight. I have no idea where my gloves are. I made you some fried chicken.

I keep reading about snow days, and gentle flakes falling softly, beautifully, delicately. Here, we are to have the Olympic Winter Games, starting Friday, and we’ve had to import our snow-growing techniques from Israel, because someone somewhere forgot to mention to the IOC that Vancouver is the part of Canada that doesn’t really get winter, and it’s not even snowing on the mountains. I spotted daffodils today, peaking through the soil, waiting for just a little bit more sunshine.

I promise, I am not trying to gloat. But I’m not feeling very wintry. I can wander around the city with bare legs and be perfectly warm; I do not feel like chana masala or meatballs or rice pudding, the kind of things I’d ordinarily want to warm me this time of year. It feels like spring, and I’m getting impatient. It’s warmish, but there are no tomatoes, or peaches, or figs yet. Let’s get on with it already!

Sigh.

It really is awful of me to complain. If you’re on the East Coast, you probably hate my smelly guts right about now. I mean, this is Canada. We’re supposed to be leading the charge on winter, right? I’ve seen cherry blossoms. It’s February. I haven’t worn a scarf since December.

Okay, I’m gloating a little bit, so maybe it’s time to get to the point. The point is, it’s not cold here, but it’s not summer yet, and I wanted something to bridge the gap. Plus, I had a big carton of buttermilk, because I make my own crème fraîche, and I wanted to use up the rest. You know what instantly makes you feel like July? Fried chicken and buttermilk biscuits. And a big plate of mashed potatoes, with butter. And then more butter.

The biscuits came from my big copy of the Gourmet cookbook. The chicken came from my head. The potatoes came from Nick, who had to help when I was preoccupied by my roiling pot of oil. Here’s the chicken: hopefully it makes you think of picnics in the sun.

Buttermilk fried chicken

• 2 to 3 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
• 2 cups buttermilk
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. lemon zest
• 1 tsp. chili powder
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
• 1/2 tsp. dried thyme

Soak chicken thighs in buttermilk, minimum thirty minutes. It’d be best if you started the soak before you leave for work in the morning. The chicken should be room temperature when you’re ready to fry it.

In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring four inches of canola oil to 375°F.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Combine flour, lemon zest, chili powder, cumin, salt, marjoram, and thyme in a large container that can be sealed with a lid, or a bag that you can hold closed.

Remove chicken from buttermilk and place into flour mixture, without patting the chicken dry. Shake until coated, and then remove to a plate. If more coating is needed on some pieces, dip back into the buttermilk, and repeat flour shaking.

When oil reaches 375°F, gently place chicken into the pot, using tongs or a long spoon. Cook two or three pieces at a time, keeping the oil around 350°. fry until golden brown on both sides, about six minutes per side.

Let oil return to 375° after removing cooked chicken, but before cooking new pieces. Place cooked chicken on a wire rack over a baking sheet and slide into the oven to keep warm.

Serve chicken with lemon wedges. If you’re anywhere but here, eat while wearing your Snuggie, because you’re probably super cold.

I lied. I am totally gloating.

Hi, I’m dying. I thought chicken noodle soup would help.

And it did help, a little, the chicken noodle soup. It’s too early to know whether it will come back to surprise me again later.

It’s been a fun couple of days – yesterday I was really excited because I was going to come straight home from work and make a mofongo with poached eggs and avocado salsa, but midway through the day I broke my molar in half on some candy at the office. I rushed out to the suburbs, where my dentist could see me last-minute. I have a silver tooth now, in the back. It’s very shiny.

So I didn’t get my mofongo, because I was only allowed to eat soup or oatmeal, soft, non-chewing foods, so we had soup. And then, about 10:30 that night, after Nick had been a puke monster for a number of hours already, the sickness took hold of me as well. It’s not swine flu, I don’t think, because I don’t smell bacon, but it’s unpleasant nevertheless. So, I didn’t get my mofongo again.

I feel like a Pepto Bismol ad. If the Pepto Bismol was spiked with laxatives and poison. And if the cameraman was beating my face with a hammer.

I mulled some wine and took some pills and made some chicken noodle soup, so hopefully I’ll survive the night. Here’s the recipe. It’s just exactly what you’ll need when you feel like I do, and, if we’ve been in contact recently, you’ll probably feel like I do soon enough.

Chicken noodle soup

• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• 1/2 lb. chicken thighs, bone-in and skin-on (three to four)
• 1 medium onion, quartered with peel left on
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed with skins left on
• 1 small leek, greens separated
• 1 sprig fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tbsp. salt
• 2 tsp. olive oil
• 1 cup carrots (about two, quartered and chopped)
• 1 cup chopped celery
• 1 cup chopped leek, the white part
• 1 lemon, juiced
• 1 cup broad egg noodles
• Salt and pepper, to taste

In a medium pot, heat olive oil and add chicken, onions, and garlic, browning lightly. Add in about six cups of water, and the leek tops, the thyme, the bay leaves, and the salt. Bring to a boil, and then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for 25 minutes.

Remove chicken from pot and set aside to cool. Put pot in fridge, uncovered, and let cool for about 30 minutes.

In a large pot, heat 2 tsp. olive oil, and stir in carrots, celery, and leek until sweaty and glistening. You know, like you there with that fever. I know chicken soup might not be the best thing to help break a fever, but no one ever felt better eating cold chicken soup, and the Slurpee machine at the gas station is no longer operating.

Shred the chicken, disposing of the skin and bones.

Skim the fat off the top of the stock, and strain into a measuring cup. You’ll probably need to do this a few times – you should have about six cups of stock. Add the stock to the sweaty vegetables. If you’re shy of six cups, you can use store-bought stock to make up the difference, but water is also fine. Stir in your lemon juice, and bring to a boil. Add your noodles and chicken, and boil for five to six minutes, until veggies and noodles are tender. Adjust your seasonings – I added another few teaspoons of salt.

Serve with crackers and ginger ale while you watch Star Trek, sweating in your underpants.

Feel better. Don’t die. Also, this recipe makes a lot of soup so if you do end up losing most of it during the night, you’ll have leftovers for the next day, when hopefully you can keep down sustenance.